Day 10: Regensburg

We traveled through the night and had a leisurely breakfast en route to Regensburg. The ship was running a bit late because of traffic through the locks. During breakfast, we were in a lock and though the ship seemed completely stable, you could watch it rise by looking at the ladders on the wall recede. Laura mentioned to me at breakfast that I didn’t include in last night’s email the conversation I had with the guide in Salzburg. He said that Austria was “liberated” in 1945. I asked him why he used that word since the Austrian’s were quick to jump on the nazi bandwagon and certainly did nothing to make amends. He really didn’t have a good answer. Just made me think.

While we were driving back from Salzburg, we passed a small town and there was a memorial with a bronze sculpture of a soldier with an inscription which said something like “dead for the fatherland” and the dates of both world wars.

It is gray and drizzly.

We were still traveling on the river after breakfast when an announcement came on to look at a sight along the river. There is a Greek temple! The Parthenon!

After breakfast there was a talk about today’s two stops. The town of Regensburg looks lovely – it’s a UNESCO city. I had signed up for the excursion to Weltenburg Abbey but had second thoughts when looking at the weather. It’s another long-ish bus ride then a smaller boat up the Danube gorge to get to the abbey. I decided I didn’t want to do it, and the cruise director had no problem with the cancellation. Laura and Stu still plan to go, the oldest brewery in Germany is in the Abbey and they want to check it out.

They left after a wonderful lunch. Corn chowder, baby back ribs with curly fries (me) fish and chips (Stu) and the wonderful lunch salads for Laura. We split cheesecake for dessert.

I borrowed a large umbrella from the boat and walked into Regensburg. It started to rain in earnest and it was about a 20 minute walk. First stop, the Dom Cathedral, to look and to get out of the rain! It’s gothic, not baroque and has gorgeous stained glass windows.

I went back into the rainy town and walked around a bit. There weren’t too many tourists, unlike most of the other places we’ve been, but since there are three Viking ships docked near us, there were large groups of red umbrellas walking the streets. It’s beautiful. There are towers built by wealthy merchants. Brings to mind San Gimignano.

It’s amazing that all the towns we’ve seen are painted in such lovely pale pastels.

On the walk back to the boat, I passed the Historische Wurstkuchl, the oldest sausage kitchen in the world. Lots of smoke. If I had a few companions to share the wursts, I would have stopped!

Tonight there was a Bavarian evening in the lounge before dinner. They were fantastic! As soon as they started to play, I texted Laura to tell here that there was a tuba! She and Stu were up in two minutes.

There were four gentlemen, playing tuba, accordion, trumpet and bass trumpet. I guess it was a bit hokey, but it was so much fun to listen to them. They really knew their stuff. They did oompah music, Strauss waltzes, Hungarian music, you name it. They engaged their audience and had us all laughing. For an encore, they played “Edelweiss”, what else?

Laura and Stu had a great time on the excursion. There was a boat ride through the Danube gorge on the way to the abbey. Laura has a photo of Stu shivering under an umbrella. They said the guide was fantastic and really knowledgeable. At the end of the tour they were given a pretzel and a beer. They had to pay 25 cents for a packet of mustard. No Herlocher’s. They told a good joke. What is a five course meal in Bavaria? A pretzel and four bottles of beer!

We had the bottle of champagne that Laura and Stu had given to me as a thank you. Delicious.

Dinner was arugula salad with a basil dressing. Stu had chili con carne, Laura had the cream of celery soup. Then Laura had fried St. Pierre fish with a buckwheat cake. Stu and I had crispy orange chicken. Good, but not the best meal we have had on board. However, dessert was fantastic. Creme brûlée topped with berries. Enough said.

Now I am looking at my packed suitcase and the detritus of a week spent in my lovely room. I might have to take a Benadryl or I might cry myself to sleep.

If you ever want to take a cruise, call Tom Baker. I only told him I wanted to take a river cruise with my kids, he could choose the rest. He did the best job! The itinerary and the ship could not have been better. It will be sad to say goodbye to the staff, they took such good care of us.

Tomorrow, Prague.

Love,
Lynn