Sorrento and Capri

By the way, the Jetson’s shower was great. There are lights that continually flash with different colors, red, blue, green, white. And there was a full length mirror in the shower…I turned the other way.

I awoke at nine after sleeping like a log. Great breakfast, sat with a couple from Boston. Across the way there was a couple from Long Island and another from outside London. All were very nice and congenial. I was served a huge cappuccino which had four hearts created in the crema. It was good, but Gail, I like yours better!

I managed to control myself and had a bit of cheese, fruit, and a croissant. There were freshly made cakes that just spelled doom.

As I have Luigi booked for several days, I decided to go to Capri today. A short walk to the Villa Communale then a one euro lift ride down to the marina. I purchased a return ticket and managed to get on an earlier boat….they don’t seem to care what time your ticket says, just hop on whichever ferry is at the dock.

The trip took about a half hour, seeing the coast from the water was beautiful. We pulled in and walked down the pier to a crush of buses and taxis. One of the guests at breakfast suggested I just arrange for a taxi for the day, which I did. Pepino put a cover over the back of the taxi and we were off. The taxis are the size of station wagons with just the front seat under a roof. The rear is wide open with a long bench seat facing forward and folding seats that would hold two more people but they would have to face backwards. Which could be problematic as the roads are winding and vertiginous.

We wound up the very narrow road to Anacapri. Pepino dropped me off and told me to walk. Which I did. Plenty of other tourists but the farther I walked from the main square, the fewer there were. There were, of course, touristy shops, several with people making the famous sandals in the windows. But the path came out and overlooked the sea. Unbelievable. It was just gorgeous.

Then he took me down an even narrower road, parked, and sent me down a path bordering the sea (but of course about a mile up). I passed a small heliport where I saw two people boarding a helicopter which then soared off. Russian oligarchs? I came to an excavated area of Roman ruins. I was the only person there. Those Romans really knew the laws of real estate, location, location, location. It was breathtaking.

We drove up and down and around and over to Marina Piccola which had a small beach, several seaside restaurants, and a divine view over to three enormous rock formations. Very few people.

And then we went to Capri town. Yikes. Tourists everywhere. Plenty of selfie sticks, which I just don’t get. You could just see from the angles they were taking photos, that the only thing in the photo would be their heads. No drop dead view. What’s the point? Of course the views were beautiful from the main plaza. But all the streets, really alleys, were lined with boutiques and some fabulous hotels. By this time I was ready for a break and stopped at a tiny cafe with tables on the street. It was directly across from Dolce and Gabanna. When I stood at the top of the street and looked down, there were rows of identical white awnings each inscribed with the name of the fabulous shop to be found within. It would make Rodeo Drive weep with shame.

After a toasted cheese sandwich I met Pepino and we drove back down to the Marina Grande. Even though my ticket back was for 4:00 and it was only 3, I hopped on the 3:15 back to Sorrento.

I walked along the marina passing several beach clubs and came around a bend to find a tiny public beach. What a treat! There were about 30 preteens having an outing, the girls in bikinis and very self conscious, the boys in both speedos and shorts. A teacher (?) had all the kids attention, they all counted down from ten, in Italian, then they all ran into the sea. The girls stayed with the girls, the boys with the boys. Some things never change! There was little room on the almost sandy beach for anyone else, however there was a young couple, perhaps 18, stretched out and snogging away and being watched by everyone. Ah…young love.

I took the one Euro lift back up to town and walked by the same courtyard where I saw the wedding yesterday. Another one was taking place! It is a very popular locale. This wedding was also British, more fascinators (why haven’t they caught on in the US of A?) and ugly bridesmaid dresses. This time they were each a different pastel color.

There was a loud clap of thunder and the streets were suddenly empty. But no rain, and nothing was going to deter me from a gelato at Raki, a highly recommended gelateria. The server recommended lemon, which is THE flavor of Sorrento, so I had it. OMG. It was just an explosion of taste. Luckily the cups are tiny. I will be back. A nice woman in a shop further on told me to get the nut, ricotta,and honey flavor tomorrow.

I went up to the terrace to read and start this email and a couple I had met at breakfast, Ann and Anthony from Long Beach, NY invited me to take a walk with them, which I did. Of course we ended up finding a wonderful restaurant, Da Gigino, which had an outdoor table waiting for us.

Ann ordered a baked eggplant appetizer which she shared. It was fabulous. Anthony had octopus served with thinly sliced potatoes. He ate it all. Then we had pasta, cannelloni for me, lasagna for Ann and pasta with seafood for Anthony. It was all wonderful. Anthony ordered a bottle of white wine, and yes, I did have some, served frosty cold and delicious. The prices were incredibly reasonable and Anthony absolutely refused to let me participate. His wife said I would never win that argument as he is an old school Italian gentleman. I hope I can at least take them for gelato before I leave. We strolled on back to the hotel. I probably should have run a marathon.

Tomorrow I meet Luigi who will take me for a tour of the Amalfi coast. Can’t wait!
Lynn