Time to spread my wings, no more Cambridge for me, but instead a trip to Italy.
Commuter flight from State College to Philadelphia then a 6 hour layover until the flight to Rome. Luckily I had a pass to the Admirals Club, formerly known as the USAirways Club. There were seats next to the windows which had wonderful views overlooking the planes taking off and landing. Of course the free cappuccinos, cheese, soups and crudités made the wait all the more bearable. As did watching old episodes of The West Wing on Netflix.
The flight was about half full and the lady at the club changed my seat to a row of four seats which were empty. So I got to stretch out. I think I got about two hours sleep, not bad considering!
Customs was a joke, just a walk through and a quick stamp of the passport. Then the express train to Roma Termini where I switched my ticket to Sorrento. It took so little time to get to the station that I didn’t want to wait the 2 1/2 hours for the one I had booked at home. It was a fast train, an hour and a few minutes then arrival at Napoli Centrale. As I walked down the platform, I spied a young woman holding a sign with my name on it. She explained that the driver sent by the hotel had been held up in traffic. She got me a quick coffee, drunk standing up at the bar, then the driver found me and off we went. It’s nice to be met.
Nello was my driver. He had a large Mercedes van and I sat in front with him so I could ask lots of questions. Driving around the square in front of the station was an adventure. Many lanes of traffic, many, many scooters and one light. An ambulance was clanging away trying to get through, but the drivers took the noise as more of a suggestion than a command.
When we were free of the city, Nello pointed out a high mountain in front of us wreathed in fog. Vesuvius!! I mean it is RIGHT THERE! He said it has been smoldering and if it blows, there is no where for the population to go. I hope it waits a week.
As we passed, he pointed to the left, Pompeii. It was surprising that it is so close to the autostrada. For some reason I thought it would be isolated. Around the bend, then the gorgeous expansive view of the Bay of Naples.
When we were free of the city, Nello pointed out a high mountain in front of us wreathed in fog. Vesuvius!! I mean it is RIGHT THERE! He said it has been smoldering and if it blows, there is no where for the population to go. I hope it waits a week.
As we passed, he pointed to the left, Pompeii. It was surprising that it is so close to the autostrada. For some reason I thought it would be isolated. Around the bend, then the gorgeous expansive view of the Bay of Naples.
A young man from my B&B met us in the square to take my bags. The center of town is pedestrian only.
Palazzo Montefusco is up three flights of stairs. Carla, a delightful stereotypical Italiana met me and showed me my room. It is very modern, with a totally modern bathroom (shower with jets and steam and heat lamps). It’s great, this modern place tucked into an ancient building.
By this time I was hungry and she sent me to Pizzeria Franco, about a ten minute walk. Very plain, picnic tables, and I was sitting next to a big case loaded with huge prosciuttos. Vegetarians beware. The pizza was delicious, I opted for the classic Margherita. Ate too much. Walked around a bit, came back to PM to regroup a bit, then headed over to the Villa Communale, a park overlooking the bay. At the entrance, there is a famous church where I stopped to look. Lots of multicolored marble. And now there are electric candles only.
As I left the church, I saw a sign for an art school and turned in this little alley. Well, it went in to what was formerly the cloister of the church (I think) and who knew? There was a wedding taking place!
The cloister was bordered by ancient arcades and in the middle there was a beautiful large tree, a wellhead with a big planter of flowers over it, and wisteria or bouganvillia hanging down from the second story. The bride and groom were sitting in front of a table behind which stood an official looking man in a suit with a large tricolor banner bisecting his chest. Next to him, a woman in a purple t-shirt with her jacket tied around her waist. What’s wrong with this picture?
The bride and groom were listening to a speech from a friend who read pages and pages from a notebook and spouted all the cliches. (Sorry about the spelling, I meant “kleeshays”) they were English or Scottish, the women were wearing fascinators, at least the ones who weren’t bridesmaids (dressed in bright red short ugly dresses) were. Then the bride and groom signed certificates while a harpist played. They were kissed by the officiants, the man actually kissed the brides hand! I imagine they are eating pasta now.
I finally got to the park which has an amazing view of the water. Looking straight down is a bit frightening. It’s far. There is a marina with beach clubs built on wooden piers with ladders down to the water. Not much sand. There are restaurants on the piers as well as tiny changing cabins that look like they would belong in Victorian England.
I wandered back through crowded alleys looking at the amazing amounts of tourist wares available. I went into a shop with all sorts of artisanal foods, and a lovely girl absolutely forced me to try candies and cookies. In the window there was a machine spouting white chocolate and dark chocolate. It was molten and flowing like lava. Do you like the continued Vesuvius imagery?
Now I am sitting on the terrace and enjoying the evening. I’ll try to stay up until nine. Maybe I’ll try the Jetson’s shower.

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